Why You’ll Love a Star Princess Cruise to Alaska

Seattle: 48 Hours in the Emerald City Before Our Alaska Cruise

After departing Brisbane at 10am on a Friday, we flew with Air Canada via Vancouver and, thanks to crossing the International Date Line, arrived in Seattle at around 10am on the very same Friday. It always feels a little surreal stepping off a long-haul flight and getting an entire day back.

With just 48 hours to explore the Emerald City before boarding our Star Princess Alaska cruise, we were determined to make every minute count.

Staying at the Fairmont Olympic Seattle

For our Seattle stay, we checked into the historic Fairmont Olympic Hotel, and it turned out to be the perfect choice for our short time in the city.

One thing worth mentioning is that the hotel charges a daily destination fee. While we didn’t use any of the inclusions the fee provides, I would absolutely stay here again.

The location was fantastic. Pike Place Market, the waterfront, public transport and many of Seattle’s major attractions were all within easy walking distance.

What really stood out, though, was the service. After a long journey from Brisbane via Vancouver, we arrived tired, slightly jet-lagged and ready to switch into holiday mode. The staff at check-in were genuinely some of the friendliest hotel staff we’ve encountered anywhere. They were warm, welcoming and incredibly helpful, making us feel valued from the moment we walked through the door.

It might seem like a small thing, but after a long-haul flight, that kind of welcome can set the tone for an entire trip. The comfort of the hotel, the convenience of the location and the exceptional service made it exactly the start we needed.

Pike Place Market

If there was one place we kept returning to during our time in Seattle, it was Pike Place Market.

We visited three times over our 48 hours in the city, right after arriving on Friday morning, again on Saturday morning, and on Sunday before we headed to the port to catch our Star Princess Cruise to Alaska.

Operating since 1907, Pike Place Market is one of the oldest continuously operating public markets in the United States, but it doesn’t feel like a tourist attraction that’s resting on its history. It’s vibrant, busy and full of character.

One of my must-try stops was Piroshky Piroshky – I can confirm the pastries absolutely lived up to the hype. Warm, fresh and packed with flavour, they made the perfect snack while exploring the market… and they had two yummy vegan options (the potato and mushroom was my favourite!).

As a vegan traveller, I was pleasantly surprised by how many plant-based options I found throughout the area. Whether I was looking for breakfast, lunch or just a quick snack, there were plenty of choices available.

One unexpected shopping spot was the Seattle Shirt Company near the market entrance. We assumed the prices would be typical tourist-area prices, but they were actually very reasonable. What started as a quick browse quickly turned into a shopping session, and we left with far more t-shirts and trinkets than we’d planned to buy – including gifts for family.

We also loved browsing some of the more unusual shops around the market, including a fascinating magic store that was packed with tricks, curiosities and collectibles.

The location overlooking the waterfront is another reason we kept coming back. There is always something happening, whether it’s street performers entertaining crowds, ferries moving across Elliott Bay or simply people watching from one of the many viewpoints.

During our visit, we were lucky enough to catch the annual Mother’s Day Flower Festival. The market was overflowing with colourful blooms, adding even more life and energy to an already vibrant place.

Coffee at the Original Starbucks

Being in Seattle, a coffee stop at the original Starbucks felt almost mandatory.

Yes, the queue was longer than your average Starbucks, (a sure sign it was worth the visit!) but when you’re standing outside the store where it all began in 1971, it felt like a must-do. I also have a few of the Starbucks Discovery Series mugs, so I added Pike Place to my small collection.

If you’re already exploring Pike Place Market, it’s a fun experience and an easy box to tick. Plus – the staff here are SO friendly!

Exploring Seattle

No trip to Seattle would feel complete without seeing the Space Needle. Built for the 1962 World’s Fair, it’s one of the city’s most recognisable landmarks and something we’d been looking forward to seeing in person.

Rather than taking public transport, we decided to walk there from downtown. Seattle’s hills definitely provided a workout, but the walk gave us a chance to see more of the city and explore areas we might otherwise have missed.

The Space Needle is one of those landmarks that’s instantly recognisable, yet somehow still more impressive in person. As we got closer, it seemed to tower above everything around it, and we found ourselves stopping for photos from multiple angles.

We chose to enjoy the Space Needle from the outside on this visit, and the surrounding area is lovely in its own right, with plenty of open space and great photo opportunities. We enjoyed wandering around the grounds, admiring the architecture and taking in one of Seattle’s most famous sights at our own pace.

Pizza Near the Space Needle

After spending time exploring the Space Needle area, we were more than ready for dinner. A quick search led us to Ananas Pizzeria, and it turned out to be exactly what we were looking for.

The New York-style pizzas were enormous, and exactly what we needed after a day spent walking around Seattle.

As a vegan traveller, I’m always pleased when a restaurant offers a genuine option rather than requiring endless modifications, and Ananas had a vegan pizza available. We grabbed a table outside, rested our feet and enjoyed.

A Different Side of Seattle: Southcenter Mall

With limited time in Seattle before our Star Princess Alaska cruise, we wanted to do more than just tick off the major tourist attractions. So on day two, we jumped on a local bus and headed to Southcenter Mall to experience a different side of the city.

The trip itself was surprisingly easy – public transport in Seattle was straightforward to navigate, and the fare was incredibly affordable at around $1. You can use your credit card or digital wallet to tap on and off, and google maps made it super easy to find the right bus stop.

One thing we hadn’t expected was the view! As we travelled south, we caught glimpses of Mount Rainier in the distance. Photos don’t really prepare you for how enormous it is.

Southcenter Mall was exactly what you’d expect from a large American shopping centre – big, busy and packed with stores. While we weren’t on a mission to shop, it was fun browsing brands we don’t have at home and seeing how locals spend their weekend. As always, the food court was a highlight. We could both choose exactly what we felt like eating, and there were enough options that even as a vegan, I had no trouble finding something. We grabbed lunch, took a break from sightseeing and enjoyed simply soaking up the atmosphere.

Was it a must-see Seattle attraction? Not in the traditional sense – but that’s exactly why we enjoyed it! It gave us a chance to experience Seattle beyond the postcard landmarks, use the local transport system and spend a few hours doing something a little different.

Sometimes those unplanned adventures end up being just as memorable as the famous landmarks.

Seattle as a Pre-Cruise City Stay

Seattle exceeded our expectations!

Between the energy of Pike Place Market, the walkable city centre, easy public transport, iconic attractions and the comfort of the Fairmont Olympic, it proved to be the perfect place to spend a couple of days before our Alaska cruise.

Embarkation Day: Boarding the Star Princess in Seattle

Before we knew it, our 48 hours in Seattle had come to an end and it was time to board the Star Princess.

Princess Cruises sails from Pier 91 rather than the downtown cruise terminal near Pike Place Market, so walking wasn’t an option. We grabbed a taxi from the Fairmont Olympic, which cost around USD $50 including our luggage.

The embarkation terminal was buzzing with excited passengers ready to set sail!

We arrived a little ahead of our allocated boarding time – we’re always early birds – and from joining the queue to stepping onboard took us around an hour and a half.

The queue was divided into three separate lines based on arrival times, which kept things organised and moving. A tip for future travellers: try to arrive as close to your allocated boarding time as possible to make the most of your day.

Once we reached the check-in area, however, things moved much more quickly. Because we were travelling from Australia, our Princess Medallions hadn’t been mailed out beforehand, so we collected them during check-in. That part of the process was surprisingly efficient, and within minutes we were officially on our way onboard!

Our Deluxe Balcony Stateroom 14643: Aft Corner Views for Days

One of the highlights of boarding Star Princess was getting acquainted with our home for the week: Deluxe Balcony Stateroom 14643.

Located right at the aft corner of the ship, this cabin ended up being everything we had hoped for and more. The corner position gave us an incredible balcony with sweeping views that quickly became our favourite place to relax. Whether we were watching the scenery drift by, enjoying a quiet drink or keeping an eye out for wildlife, it was the perfect vantage point for the Inside Passage.

Many people wonder if being so far in the back of the aft would mean more noise or movement. In reality, neither was an issue for us. The cabin was surprisingly quiet, and despite Shayne being someone who gets seasick quite easily, neither of us found the motion excessive. In fact, we were delighted by how comfortable the location felt throughout the voyage.

Inside, the stateroom was modern, comfortable and thoughtfully designed, with plenty of storage for two people travelling with far two large suitcases and a carry-on luggage. After busy days exploring ports and enjoying everything the ship had to offer, it was always a pleasure returning to our own private space.

For sunrise and sunset (which is VERY late in Alaska), we found ourselves drawn straight back to the balcony. Watching the ship’s wake stretch out behind us, looking out for whales (of which we saw a few) and simply taking in the ever-changing scenery became part of our daily routine.

If you’re considering a balcony stateroom in the aft area on Star Princess, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it. I would also recommend that you prioritise having a balcony stateroom – it is without a doubt worth the extra money to have your own personal views.

Sea Days with Star Princess

I am a lover of port intensive cruise itineraries, but because we also go at a pace of 100 so as not to miss anything whilst on land, we really love to balance it with some sea days here and there. Without them, we would be exhausted in no time.

On an Alaskan voyage aboard the Star Princess, we had two sea days woven into our journey, and we made the most of them in our own relaxed way. The beauty of a sea day is simple, because you do exactly as much, or as little, as you want. No shuttles to catch, no excursion meeting points, no alarm set for a tender departure.

Exploring the Star Princess

We started by properly getting to know the ship itself, which is something port days rarely leave time for. The Star Princess is a Grand Class vessel (one of Princess Cruises’ larger ships) and she has the spaces to match. The Dome is one of the most striking rooms onboard; a glass-enclosed observation lounge perched high on the ship with panoramic views, and an atmosphere that invites you for a drink to watch the Alaskan coastline drift past. We wandered the decks, poked our heads into lounges, tracked down the best coffee spots, and generally treated the ship itself as a destination worth exploring.

Our balcony stateroom overlooked one of the pools, which, to be clear, we admired entirely from afar. Even on the warmest days, I wasn’t slightly tempted to get in the water while in the middle of Alaska. Still, the pool decks were lively with plenty of braver souls making the most of them!

Star Princess Entertainment and Enrichment

Entertainment-wise, Princess Cruises does a solid job of filling sea days with things that are actually fun rather than filler. We caught the Married Game Show, which had the crowd in hysterics, and dipped in and out of Music Trivia and Karaoke sessions, both reliably entertaining whether you’re playing or just watching someone dramatically oversell a Dolly Parton number. The Star Princess takes a different approach to onboard entertainment compared to older-style ships. Rather than a single large theatre running two packed sittings each night, the entertainment is spread more broadly across the ship, with smaller venues hosting a rotation of shows, performances, and activities throughout the day and evening. It means the experience feels less regimented and more like drifting between things that catch your eye.

The real highlight from the onboard programming was an enrichment talk by Alaskan photographer Daryl Pederson. These kinds of destination-specific lectures are one of the underrated gems of cruising, and this one was exceptional. Daryl’s Aurora Borealis photography is stunning, the kind of images that make you want to go and drop thousands on a DSLR camera and get some lessons! Talks like his give you a chance to come ashore more informed and more in love with the place you’re visiting.

O’Malley’s Irish Pub on Princess Cruises

When we weren’t exploring the ship or catching entertainment, our time settled naturally into two spots that quickly became our go-to’s for the whole voyage. The first was O’Malley’s Irish Pub, which sits comfortably at the top of my list as the best food and drink spot on the Star Princess. There’s something about a well-run pub at sea that just works, and O’Malley’s gets it right. The atmosphere is warm and inviting, the music hits that sweet spot between lively and not-too-loud, and the staff have the easy, welcoming energy that makes you want to pull up a stool and stay a while. The food is a cut above typical pub fare too. As a plant-based traveller, I was delighted to find a proper plant-based burger on the menu, not an afterthought, but something genuinely worth ordering. If you’re sailing on the Star Princess, make O’Malley’s a priority. It’s included in the Casual dining for those who have the Princess Plus or Princess Premier packages, or a small cover fee for those who don’t.

Why a Balcony Cabin?

The second spot, and the one I’d advocate for most strongly when speaking with clients about their cruise plans, was our balcony. And this brings me to what I’d consider the single most important piece of advice I could give anyone planning an Alaskan cruise: book a balcony cabin. I know it costs more, and I know it’s tempting to reason that you’ll spend most of your time in public spaces anyway. But Alaska changes that calculus completely. Of course if it comes down to being able to visit Alaska or not, then I understand choosing an interior or oceanview, but if it’s at all possible to stretch your budget, DO IT.

Here’s the thing about the public viewing areas on larger cruise ships: the glass windbreaks are designed to shield you from the wind, which they do very effectively, but they also sit quite high, which means you’re looking through glass at the scenery rather than directly at it. On a stateroom balcony, the glass panels and railings are lower (but not unsafe), and when standing you can look right over the top of them. The difference is hard to overstate. Unobstructed views of humpback whales, sea otters, or rainbows over a fjord at 9pm, these are the moments that defined our Alaskan cruise.

We also discovered a small trick of keeping the balcony door ajar while the TV was tuned to the ship’s bridge commentary channel. That way, whenever the onboard naturalist made an announcement over the ship’s loudspeaker, such as a whale sighting, we heard it in real time and could whip out the binoculars. And if we got a little chilly sitting out there, no problem, we simply ordered hot tea through the MedallionClass app and it arrived at the cabin in a teapot. We used the Medallion the same way out on deck too, ordering drinks delivered straight to wherever we were sitting. It’s such a simple thing but it genuinely changes how you experience the ship.

Ketchikan Cruise Port

Our first port of call was Ketchikan, and what an introduction to Alaska it was. The town is practically hanging off the mountainside, built wherever it can find a foothold between steep cliffs and the ocean’s edge. There is so little flat land to speak of that the buildings simply climb upward or extend out over the water on stilts, and the result is one of the most striking arrivals you’ll have from a cruise ship. Colourful stilt buildings stacked against snow-capped mountains in every direction. I couldn’t help but smile from our balcony, looking out at this beautiful day and a new adventure! And then there was the weather. Ketchikan has a reputation for rain, sitting among the wettest places in North America, so we were fully prepared to be damp. Instead, we got sunshine all day, and we were not taking it for granted for a single second.

Ketchikan is a very walkable town, and we spent the day doing exactly that, no guide, no itinerary, just wandering and seeing where things led.

The Wrong Direction

We were docked early, earlier than Creek Street’s shops and boardwalk were open, so rather than stand around waiting we did what we always do and just started walking. Away from the tourist heart of town, past residential streets and the local life going about its morning, until we stumbled across Ketchikan Plaza, the local shopping mall. We ducked into the grocery store for a good nosy around, picked up a drink, and wandered back at our own pace. It sounds unremarkable written down, but this is one of our favourite ways to get a feel for a place. Then, by the time we made our way back toward the waterfront, Creek Street was open and waiting.

Creek Street

Creek Street is the historic heart of Ketchikan, and for good reason. The boardwalk runs along Ketchikan Creek with the shops and buildings suspended on stilts above the water, and the words that come to mind are “charming” “quaint”. But the history underneath it is even better. During Prohibition in the 1920s, Creek Street was the bootlegging capital of the region. Because the buildings sat over the water on stilts, smugglers would wait for high tide, row quietly underneath, and pass illegal liquor up through secret trapdoors in the floorboards, right under the noses of the police.

The shops along Creek Street are a big part of the Ketchikan experience too. A fun mixture of boutiques, galleries, and gift shops, and we were very happily in our element browsing through all of them. I have a tradition of buying a Christmas tree ornament everywhere we travel, and Ketchikan was never going to be a hard one to shop for. A little totem pole for the tree was an obvious and perfect choice.

But… one of my favourite purchases of the whole trip came from Fish Creek Company. I saw a gorgeous pair of earrings, but upon reading the description it said “walrus ivory.” Even if I wasn’t vegan (and I am), the word ivory carries all the wrong associations. The staff member saw me looking and asked if they could assist – so I queried my concerns with her. She was lovely, taking the time to explain, and I was so glad I asked!

The ivory is fossilised, meaning it comes from walrus tusks that have been lying buried in the Alaskan earth for anywhere between hundreds and thousands of years. She assured me that no one is harmed in the process. On the contrary, the material is excavated by Native Alaskan communities during the summer months when the frost thaws out, and buying these products supports them. It’s also worth knowing that by law, only Alaska Native people are permitted to carve walrus ivory, so every piece you purchase has been made by hand within those communities. After learning this, combined with the fact they are just darn beautiful, buying them felt really meaningful. Also, every piece is unique because the minerals in the earth where they laid influence the colour differently.

From Creek Street we ducked down the Married Man’s Trail, a lush, forested path that winds into the trees and once served as the discreet escape route for men leaving the old red-light district without being seen. The name says it all really. It’s a beautiful little walk regardless of the history, thick with greenery and very Alaska.

Totem Heritage Center

Ketchikan is the totem capital of the world, so visiting the Totem Heritage Center was a natural addition to our day. It’s a focused, intimate space – perfect for a meaningful stop without taking up too much time.

We enjoyed the interesting facts we learned from the information boards, and it’s nice knowing that the admission fee supports the largest collection of 19th century totem poles in the U.S. and serves as a cultural centre for the Haida, Tlingit, and Tsimshian peoples. The center was was established to preserve totem poles retrieved from uninhabited villages, and to keep Native artistic and cultural traditions alive. Traditionally, totem poles were never meant to be preserved at all, they were left behind when a village moved on and allowed to return to the earth naturally.

A worthwhile stop that adds real cultural depth to a Ketchikan visit, especially if you skip the Totem Bight State Park like we did.

Sailaway from Ketchikan

We headed up to the top decks as the Star Princess pulled away from the dock, and I genuinely don’t have better words for it than: it didn’t look real. I kept just shaking my head. Everywhere you looked it was another view that had no business being that beautiful. The water, the mountains, the sky, all doing the absolute most at the same time.

And then Alaska just keeps going. We knew the days are long in Alaska when it gets towards summer, in terms of daylight. And we had a sunset that evening that went on so long I had to check what time it actually was. (Note: It was really late!)

Dawes Glacier Shore Excursion and Endicott Arm Fjord

Photos really can’t do Dawes Glacier justice. Nothing I captured can truly show the sheer scale and beauty of it. As with every single place we visited in Alaska, I would take a photo, shake my head at what the image produced, and turn to my husband Shayne: “You really just have to experience it, don’t you?”

How the Excursion Works

We booked a Dawes Glacier shore excursion that picked us up directly from the Star Princess while we were still out at sea, which in itself was an experience. Watching our small 140 passenger boat pull right up alongside the main ship so we could transfer across is not something you do every day.

The reason for the smaller vessel isn’t just novelty. It meant we could actually weave through the thick fields of ice that sit between the open water and the glacier face, getting right up close in a way the big ship simply can’t. The difference in scale between where the Star Princess had to stop and where our small boat could take us can be seen in some of my photos below.

What to Wear and Expect

A practical note before I go any further: it was drizzly all day. Not heavy rain, but persistent, cold, and damp in that way that gets into everything. We had our jackets and we were prepared, and honestly it didn’t dampen the day at all, but go knowing that this is Alaska and dress accordingly. Layers, waterproof outer shell, and comfortable shoes you don’t mind getting wet. I had bought a pair of Merry People gumboots in preparation, and they did not fail me on this trip.

The Allen Marine catamaran has seating inside the vessel, and most passengers spent the majority of the time in there, coming out only when the naturalist announced something worth seeing and then heading back in. I completely understand it. It was cold and wet and the naturalist was speaking from inside.

But for us, we spent nearly the entire six hours standing outside. Because for me, watching Alaska through a glass window isn’t the same as being out in it. The wind in your face, the rain on your jacket, the cold air, the smell of it. Everything felt like it needed to be felt directly. And when you’re inside, you’re reacting to what someone tells you is worth seeing. When you’re outside, you’re seeing everything. We didn’t want to miss a single thing, and we didn’t.

Dawes Glacier

The glacier comes into view long before you reach it, visible even from the Star Princess as she made her way through the fjord. But it doesn’t compare to how it looks when you get this close. The sheer face of it, that extraordinary blue, the way it sits wedged between the rock faces with ice scattered all across the water in front of it. We got close enough that it filled our entire field of vision and still felt like it went on forever in every direction.

We witnessed a calving while we were there. A massive chunk of ice breaking away from the glacier face and crashing into the water below. I felt a deep appreciation that I get to be here, to see this, while it’s still this magnificent.

One of the things our naturalist taught us about the floating ice we were weaving through, was that technically – none of them were icebergs. To qualify as an official iceberg, a chunk of ice has to be at least 16 feet above sea level. Everything smaller has its own name, and I think these names are much better. The small ones that float low in the water are called growlers, named for the sound they make when they rub against the hull of a boat. The medium sized ones are called bergy bits. I love that these are real official terms.

Those chunks of ice were absolutely packed with wildlife. Otters and harbour seals were hitching rides and basking all over them. We were glad we brought the binoculars, because they were everywhere.

Endicott Arm Fjord

After spending the morning at the glacier face I wasn’t sure what the journey back through Endicott Arm fjord was going to offer. We’d been up since the crack of dawn and weren’t due to finish the tour until 1.30pm, so I had low expectations I would even stay awake… I needn’t have worried!

The further we cruised through the fjord, the more dramatic and AMAZING it got. Waterfalls pouring down the cliff faces in every direction, clouds sitting low over the mountains, and that water. That completely unreal turquoise water that doesn’t look like it belongs on this planet.

The naturalist explained that the colour comes from glaciers grinding the rocks beneath them into an ultra fine powder over thousands of years. When that mixes through the water it reflects the light and creates that extraordinary blue green colour. The whole fjord was carved out by glaciers too, leaving behind sheer rock faces now lined with seasonal waterfalls fed by snowmelt and ice. Many of them don’t even have names on a map. They just appear while the landscape shifts through the season, and disappear again just as quietly.

Even More Alaska Wildlife

Alaska has been on my bucket list forever. I adore nature, the wilderness and most of all, wildlife. I thought the fjords were spectacular, and we hadn’t even gotten to my favourite part of the day.

Two moose, just standing there at the treeline on the shore, in a cove the boat had taken us into. The tour operators sure know what they are doing. They were tiny against the mammoth mountain behind them, mist rolling down from above, completely unbothered by our presence. I felt emotional just looking at them in that setting.

And then, as if the day hadn’t already given us everything, in that same spot, a humpback whale and her baby surfaced alongside us. I mean. Come on.

Being out on the water in complete silence while they swam right up alongside the boat, the vessel required by federal law to cut its speed and kill the PA system entirely, is something I will never forget. No announcements. No commentary. Just us, the water, and them.

And Alaska still wasn’t done. On the journey back toward Juneau, we came across a raft of sea lions hauled out on the rocks, dozens of them!

I could have flown to Alaska just for this one day and come home content. The excursion cost was worth every single cent. If you are booking a Dawes Glacier cruise itinerary, get in early for this one – with only 140 passenger capacity, it sells out every time.

Juneau Port

We arrived into Juneau at around 1.30pm, which sounds perfectly reasonable until you remember we’d been up since the crack of dawn and had just spent six+ hours on the water, in the wet, on our feet. We were tired. But Juneau is Juneau, and we weren’t about to waste the opportunity to explore a new destination!

As Alaska’s capital city, Juneau is unique in that you cannot reach it by road. No highway connects it to the rest of Alaska or anywhere else. It’s only accessible by air or sea, which makes it one of the most isolated capital cities in the world. It sits right at the base of the mountains with the ocean in front and wilderness behind, and you really feel that when you’re there.

Even on a grey, drizzly afternoon Juneau is a great looking place. Colourful historic buildings, mist in the trees, mountains looming above everything. It has a frontier feel that no amount of cruise ship tourists quite managed to dilute. We put the umbrellas up and just started walking.

There is plenty of souvenir shopping if that’s your thing, and it is absolutely our thing.

The moment that made the afternoon for me came when we wandered into Aan Hít Village House, a Tlingit and Haida owned shop and cultural space in downtown Juneau. I prefer my souvenirs to be authentic… it irks me when I pick up something interesting and turn it over to find it was made in: nowhere near the place I’m visiting.

In Aan Hít, I found a souvenir with native eagle artwork that was the real thing. The man assisting me at the counter saw what I had chosen and it sparked a conversation I wasn’t expecting and won’t forget. He taught me how to say eagle in the Tlingit language, which is “Ch’áak'”. He told me it is pronounced with a very sharp, distinct emphasis right on that initial CH sound. He also explained that the Tlingit language doesn’t traditionally use the letters P or B, which means speakers almost never fully press their lips together to make sounds. Instead it relies heavily on sounds made deep in the throat, which he said can be quite tiring to speak. It was one of those unexpected moments of human connection that stay with you long after the day is done. Buying there felt good too, knowing that the shop exists specifically to support Tlingit and Haida artists and their community.

The Waterfront

On our way back to the ship we took our time along the waterfront, which is well worth exploring. There is a stunning large scale mural painted on the side of a building, a portrait of Elizabeth Peratrovich, a Tlingit civil rights icon who fought for equality and was instrumental in passing Alaska’s Anti-Discrimination Act in 1945. It is impossible to walk past without stopping.

There are also several totem poles nearby, and my favourite was the Shangukeidí Clan Pole. It features a figure carved in a military uniform with outstretched brass hands, and the story behind it is fascinating. I’ll admit I’m guilty of pulling out my phone to look up whatever I’m standing in front of. I always have to know the story, and there always is one.

According to Tlingit oral tradition, a US officer failed to adequately compensate the clan for the use of their lands. To settle that debt, the clan claimed the officer’s name and uniform as their own crest. The outstretched hands represent that historical agreement and the debt of honour that came with it.

We were back on board well before the ship was scheduled to depart, completely worn out and ready to drop. A good night’s sleep was non-negotiable, because Skagway was next, and we had an early shore excursion to be up for. No rest for the wicked!

Skagway Shore Excursions

Skagway is another one of those Alaskan cruise ports that spoils you for choice when it comes to shore excursions. There is so much on offer that narrowing it down felt really difficult. But wildlife is my weakness, and when I came across the Eagle Preserve Rafting and Wildlife Quest, the decision felt easy.

That morning, standing on the pier waiting to board our ferry, a bald eagle soared directly overhead. It made me even more excited for the day ahead, cementing that I’d made the right choice.

Eagle Preserve Rafting & Wildlife Quest

The excursion looked perfect on paper. A narrated drive through the Valley of the Eagles, a stop at Fort William H. Seward, the first permanent US Army outpost in Alaska, rafting silently alongside bald eagles feeding on salmon, bears, wolves, hanging glaciers and a riverside lunch.

I had adjusted my expectations to what I thought were reasonable levels. We would definitely see bald eagles at the Bald Eagle Preserve. For anything else, we would have to be extremely lucky, as we were early in the season, travelling in May.

On the day, the ferry ran a little late which meant some schedule adjustments along the way. Fort William H. Seward was skipped completely, though we made a stop to stretch our legs and take in the scenery.

Once we finally reached the river launch point, I was still extremely optimistic about the rafting journey ahead. But unfortunately, this experience never really hit the mark for us. The scenery was undeniably beautiful, and our raft guide Shaun was lovely. But the preserve itself was completely quiet. No eagles. No bears. No salmon. No wildlife at all, only a collection of very large, very empty nests.

The largest part of the day was spend traveling, which I knew ahead of time, but had weighed that up with the benefits of what we would experience once we arrived. In fairness, the wildlife being absent isn’t the tour operator’s fault. Wildlife doesn’t operate on cruise ship schedules, and after the incredible encounters we’d already had in Alaska, perhaps my expectations had crept a little too high. That’s nature. Sometimes you get whales, eagles and moose. Sometimes you get empty nests.

The Ferry between Skagway and Haines

The ferry crossing itself ended up being one of the highlights of the day. Waterfalls tumbled down steep mountainsides in every direction, and snow still clung to the higher peaks. We were even treated to another humpback whale sighting along the way! We spent the entire return journey, around an hour, standing up on deck taking in the sights.

Skagway Shore Excursion Verdict

If you’ve researched Alaska at all, you’ll know the White Pass Scenic Railway is the excursion everyone talks about. The photos are spectacular, the reviews are glowing, and every second person seems to tell you it’s the one thing you absolutely must do in Skagway. I agonised over it, but wildlife is my weakness, and the Eagle Preserve excursion description painted a compelling enough picture that I convinced myself it was worth trying something different. Having already done Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway and come away a little underwhelmed (you can read about that experience here), I was keen to try something off the beaten track.

One of the couples on our raft had actually done the White Pass railway twice before and told us it was amazing both times. I guess we have a perfect reason to re-visit!

My verdict? Sometimes the popular choice is popular for a reason. If you’re visiting Skagway and deciding between the Eagle Preserve rafting and the White Pass Scenic Railway, I’d recommend the railway. It was an excursion I nearly booked, and after all that deliberation, it’s the one I wish I had chosen.

Skagway Port

By the time we arrived back in Skagway it was mid afternoon, fortunately, town is only a flat 10 to 15 minute walk from the dock.

One thing that immediately caught our attention was the queue outside Klondike Doughboy. The line was stretching out the door and down the street, which is usually a pretty good sign. We didn’t join it ourselves, but whatever they’re serving up in there must be worth the wait.

The town has a great sense of humour about its own wild history too. There’s a giant Sasquatch stationed outside the Skagway Trading Company souvenir shop, apparently a nod to the exaggerated tales that were once used to spook stampeders heading into the mountains. Essentially Alaska’s version of the Aussie drop bear. We felt very at home.

Skagway is worth the visit. The town has a fascinating history that reminded me of Tasmania’s West Coast Wilderness Railway, which as mentioned above, I visited a few years ago. Two completely different corners of the world, but isolated regions with brutal landscapes, a hectic mining boom, and a railway line carved through terrain that still feels almost impossible today. The town itself is incredibly charming, with colourful wooden buildings, boardwalks and historic facades lining the streets. We even got to watch the White Pass train rolling through town.

The port itself is a good reminder of just how extreme the environment is here. Rather than a fixed dock, Skagway uses a floating system that rises and falls with the tide, with a tidal swing of around 7 to 8 metres.

Never one to miss a wildlife moment, I spotted a stunning black and blue bird, a Steller’s Jay, while we were walking back to the ship. The only one I have ever seen. After a day that hadn’t quite delivered on the wildlife front, I was taking that as a win.

Victoria, BC Cruise Port

If you’ve ever looked at an Alaska cruise itinerary departing from the US and wondered why it always includes a quick detour into Canada, it’s not just for sightseeing. It comes down to a 1920 US maritime law called the Passenger Vessel Services Act. In simple terms, it requires foreign-flagged cruise ships sailing between US ports to stop at a foreign port along the way. Without that stop, the itinerary isn’t legally permitted. So Victoria gets added as the official international stop to tick that box, and thankfully for passengers, it’s a very scenic one.

Arriving into Victoria Port

We arrived into port in the evening, though “evening” is a relative term this far north in late spring. It was around 7pm and the sun had absolutely no intention of setting anytime soon, with hours of daylight still stretching ahead of us. The welcome committee was hard to miss: a huge gathering of seagulls circling the ship and calling out over the water. I swear they are on a completely different scale in Canada compared to home in Australia. HUGE. Not long after, a bald eagle drifted overhead, which felt like a pretty perfect introduction to the stop!

Exploring the City

From the docks we took the shuttle into the city centre for an evening wander, which we pre-booked through Princess Shore Excursions. Even with limited time, Victoria makes a strong first impression. The area is beautifully framed by heritage buildings and soft waterfront lighting, with the historic Parliament Buildings and the iconic Fairmont Empress standing out immediately.

We wandered through Chinatown, which has its own little surprises if you look down as well as up. The pedestrian crossings are painted with the animals of the Chinese zodiac, which stopped us in our tracks. We then ducked into Fan Tan Alley, one of the narrowest commercial streets in Canada, with tucked away doorways and a slightly hidden old world feel that makes it fun to explore even on a short visit.

Turning back toward the waterfront, we passed candy shops, souvenir stores and eateries, soaking up the calm evening atmosphere as the city slowly lit up around us. In the harbour we spotted a plaque commemorating the 1994 Commonwealth Games, which were held here in Victoria.

We hadn’t expected a history lesson on the shuttle in, but our driver clearly loved her city and shared it freely. The Fairmont Empress, which dominates the inner harbour, opened in 1908 during Canada’s grand railway hotel era, when luxury properties like this were built specifically to encourage cross-country travel by rail and steamship. It quickly became one of Victoria’s most iconic landmarks, hosting royalty (including King George VI and Queen Elizabeth II) and celebrities (like Rita Hayworth and Katharine Hepburn) over the decades and becoming famous for its traditional afternoon tea. During the Great Depression it faced serious pressure as travel dried up, but it adapted and survived, which is part of why it still stands today as one of Canada’s great historic hotels.

The Walk from Victoria to the Cruise Port

By the time we finished exploring the sun was beginning to set, painting everything in that golden late evening light that made the heritage buildings look even more beautiful than they already did. The queue for the return shuttle was long, the weather was perfect, and the decision to just walk made itself.

The harbour was quiet, the air was crisp, and it turned into one of those unexpectedly enjoyable stretches where you’re not really doing anything, just taking it all in. By the time we made it back to the port, around half an hour on foot, the sky had gone fully dark. There was even a small souvenir shop right at the port for any last minute browsing before heading back onboard.

Victoria left us wishing we had more time. It definitely deserves a proper visit in its own right, and we’d happily come back to explore it at a slower pace.

Disembarkation Day

After an incredible week, it was time to head home.

We always choose to self disembark, which means taking our own luggage off the ship at our own pace rather than waiting for your bags to be collected and sorted overnight. You do need to be out of your cabin by 8am, but beyond that you’re free to go whenever you’re ready. For us it’s always the right call.

One thing worth knowing if you’re flying home from Seattle on an international carrier: many airlines offer a port to airport luggage check-in service for domestic US flights, which lets you drop your bags at the cruise terminal and not see them again until your destination. As we were flying Air Canada from Seattle to Brisbane via Vancouver, we didn’t qualify for this, so we headed straight to the airport the old fashioned way, bags and all, via taxi from the rank outside the terminal.

The Vancouver Layover

Our connection in Vancouver came with a generous layover, which we had already planned to make the most of. What was scheduled as seven hours stretched closer to nine with a delay, but we had a plan in place, and a little extra time just meant more opportunity to enjoy it.

The Canada Line train runs directly from Vancouver Airport into the city, and we had earmarked the McArthurGlen Designer Outlet nearby for a browse. Getting on the train felt slightly confusing at first as we weren’t sure how to access what we’d read was effectively a free connection, but it turned out to be straightforward. We tapped on and off with our credit cards and the fare was automatically refunded a couple of days later.

The outlets were great, we picked up some clothes, grabbed lunch at Japadog, a Vancouver institution serving up Japanese inspired hot dogs that are much better than they sound, and on the walk to the train spotted a gaggle of Canadian geese and some cute bunny’s – a fitting final wildlife sighting to end our Alaska trip on!

Things Australians Should Know About Star Princess

These are some of the questions I get most often from Australian travellers before they sail on Star Princess.

Dress Code

There are still formal nights onboard Star Princess, but they are far more relaxed than many first-time cruisers expect. You’ll see a mix of formal wear, smart casual outfits, and everything in between. Outside of formal nights, the overall vibe is very easygoing.

Personally, we did not participate in the formal nights. Traveling all the way from Australia, it was hard enough packing for the Alaskan weather, let alone bringing suits, high heels, and fancy frocks! We just dined in the casual restaurants on those nights to avoid feeling out of place, and it was completely fine. On the flip side, if you love dressing up, you will definitely not be out of place either. Enjoy cruising however makes you happy!

Drinks, Soda Machines & Packages

I highly recommend upgrading to a plus or premier package. We purchased the Princess Plus package and absolutely felt that it gave amazing value for money.

• We loved the casual dining at O’Malley’s Irish Pub.
• We used the included room service multiple times.
• The WiFi worked perfectly.

We aren’t big drinkers at all – I only had a few alcoholic beverages the entire cruise, and my husband, Shayne, just had a beer or two here and there. But even soft drinks, specialty coffees, and bottled water quickly add up. Plus, I absolutely hate counting dollars and cents on vacation! It’s just nice knowing it’s already paid for.

Note: The soda fountain in the buffet is included if you’ve purchased a drinks package (like Plus or Premier). If you don’t have a package, it is only a tiny charge to use it – so I highly recommend this option rather than buying individual cans.

There is also water available around the ship free of charge (just not bottled water – which is charged, unless you have a drinks package).

Gratuities or Crew Appreciation

One of the biggest misconceptions I see is around “all-inclusive” expectations for Australian travellers. Even if you purchase a drinks package before you cruise on Star Princess, if it is an international sailing where the onboard currency is NOT AUD, daily gratuities are still charged separately once you’re onboard. The package covers your beverages and the beverage service charge, but it does not remove the standard shipboard tipping.

However – if you are cruising from Australia and the onboard currency is in AUD, then gratuities are included in the fare, and there is no charge for this onboard.

For our Alaska cruise we pre-paid our gratuities through the manage our booking portal, and we saved money because we did it when the Australian dollar was higher.

Note: You can request to have daily gratuities adjusted or removed at Guest Services. This is allowed by Princess, however it’s worth noting that gratuities form part of a pooled system that contributes to compensation for a wide range of onboard crew across hotel and dining services – people who have “invisible” jobs, and are otherwise not rewarded the same way that your room attendant or wait staff may be.

Food Onboard: Is There Always Something to Eat?

Yes. Always.

Even when the buffet isn’t operating at full capacity on Star Princess, there is food available somewhere onboard at all times of the day. The buffet runs in service windows, so certain stations close between meals for resetting and restocking. However, you’re never left without options – there are always grab-and-go items, cafés, or other dining venues operating depending on the time of day. Also, you will find daily dining times and menus through your in-room TV.

Optional Extras

WiFi, shore excursions, specialty dining, spa treatments, and upgraded drinks are all additional unless specifically included in your booking. Nothing is hidden, but it is definitely a layered pricing system.

Shore Excursions

Book in advance. Yes, you can still book many tours once you’re onboard, but it’s nice spending your cruise time having fun, not planning the vacation you’re already on!

More importantly, popular tours book out fast. If there’s something you really want to do, don’t risk missing out. For example, if we hadn’t booked our Dawes Glacier excursion in advance, we would have missed out completely as it was sold out before we even stepped onboard.

Pre-Authorisation on Your Credit Card

This catches a lot of people out. Each day, the cruise line will place a pre-authorisation hold for your daily charges on your assigned credit card. Then, at the end of the cruise, they will charge just one final lump sum.

Those daily pre-authorisations can take days or even weeks to drop off your statement. You need to prepare for this if you are relying on those funds – especially if you are using a Visa or Mastercard Debit card, as those holds will temporarily freeze your actual cash.

This is just another reason we loved having a package; we ended up having no bill at the end of our trip and spent exactly $0 onboard!

Final Note: Did I Miss Anything?

If there’s anything I’ve missed that you came here looking for – email me – I’m always happy to add more useful information for Australian travellers planning their cruise.